Ease reference
Ease is the planned difference between body measurements and garment measurements. Use this page to choose starting values and decide where to distribute them.
Ease terms
Wearing ease
Minimum allowance for breathing, sitting, and reaching. Without it seams strain and closures pull.
Design ease
Additional volume that creates silhouette. Adjust to match the intended style—from tailored to oversized.
Functional additions
Extra allowances for specific activities or features, such as vents, gussets, or layered garments.
Reference ranges
| Garment Patterns | Bust ease | Waist ease | Hip ease | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fitted woven bodice | +4 – 6 cm | +2 – 4 cm | +4 – 6 cm | Minimal layers. Add bust darts for shaping. |
| Shirt or shirt dress | +6 – 10 cm | +4 – 8 cm | +6 – 10 cm | Room to reach forward; consider back pleats. |
| Tailored jacket | +8 – 12 cm | +6 – 10 cm | +8 – 12 cm | Balance with shoulder padding and lining bulk. |
| Relaxed knit top | +6 – 12 cm | +4 – 8 cm | +6 – 10 cm | Knit recovery allows slightly less at the waist. |
| Oversized statement | +18 cm and beyond | +15 cm and beyond | +18 cm and beyond | Focus on drape. Test with muslins to control volume. |
| Trousers (woven) | — | +4 – 6 cm | +4 – 6 cm | Add rise ease (2 – 3 cm) for sitting comfort. |
| Trousers (knit) | — | 0 – +2 cm | +2 – 4 cm | Negative ease may apply with high-stretch fabrics. |
Adjust the values for fabric behaviour, lining bulk, and personal preference. Test with a toile when precision matters.
Where to distribute ease
- Split extra width across side seams and darts to keep balance. Big additions in one place distort grainlines.
- Vertical ease matters too. Add to back waist length for rounded posture or to rise for seated comfort.
- Use slash-and-spread adjustments to introduce volume gradually without sharp angles.
Evaluate with muslins
Create a quick toile in inexpensive fabric. Mark balance lines, move naturally, sit, reach, and twist. Note where fabric strains or puddles, then adjust ease distribution accordingly.
Document your sweet spots
Keep a log of preferred ease values for tops, trousers, and outerwear. Future projects become faster because you already know what feels right.
Related references
- Measurements — understand the measurement system
- How to measure — capture current body measurements