Total length
Measure from the prominent bone at the base of the neck down the spine to the intended hem.
Capture body measurements that align with our drafting tables. Work methodically, write everything down, and keep the same routine so future updates stay comparable.
Measure over close-fitting garments or underwear. Repeat the same order each time, confirm tapes stay parallel to the floor, and write down any temporary factors such as time of day or footwear.
Quick snapshots of tape placement help catch tilted angles or posture shifts when you compare with future sessions.
These measurements drive the women’s Nordic grading tables. Follow the descriptions, match them with the SVG diagrams, and log notes whenever you deviate from the baseline method.
Measure from the prominent bone at the base of the neck down the spine to the intended hem.
Place a ruler under the arm and measure vertically from the high shoulder point to the ruler's top edge.
Keep the measuring arm relaxed so the depth reflects a natural posture.
Trace from the base of the neck along the spine to the waist tape. This controls bodice balance.
Mark the waist with elastic so the endpoint stays consistent across sessions.
Measure from the center-front waist to the planned skirt hem while standing tall.
Record multiple lengths if you draft both knee and ankle variations.
Wrap the tape over the fullest part of the bust and shoulder blades, keeping it level and lightly snug.
Note a high-bust reading as well if you frequently adjust cup depth.
Measure at the waist elastic. Allow natural breathing and avoid cinching the tape.
Log both relaxed and comfortably snug values for woven versus knit projects.
Circle the tape at the fullest point between waist and seat, keeping it parallel to the floor.
Take a second reading a few centimetres below to understand shaping transitions.
Position the tape around the fullest part of the seat without lifting or compressing the flesh.
Check the measurement in a mirror to confirm the tape stays level across the back.
Measure vertically from the waist elastic to the level where the hip circumference was taken.
Log separate front and back distances if your posture tilts the pelvis forward or back.
Drop the tape from the waist at center back to the fullest point of the seat.
Use the same helper each time—the seat level is easiest to confirm from behind.
Measure horizontally across the back from arm crease to arm crease at the underarm level.
Keep shoulders relaxed—raised shoulders artificially shrink this span.
Wrap the tape around the base of the neck, resting it where a collar would sit.
Slide one finger under the tape to maintain comfortable ease for stand collars.
Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder point where the sleeve seam should begin.
Locate the shoulder point by finding the hinge where the arm lifts vertically.
With the arm slightly bent, measure from the shoulder point over the elbow to the wrist bone.
Log both wrist and desired finished sleeve hems for variation planning.
Measure around the fullest part of the bicep without flexing the muscle.
Add a second reading for the dominant arm if there's a noticeable difference.
Bend the arm to ninety degrees and wrap the tape around the elbow hinge.
Ensure the tape passes over the outer elbow point to capture movement ease.
Measure just above the wrist bone where cuffs will close.
For button cuffs, record a second value over any watch you wear daily.
Trace the armhole path from the shoulder point under the arm and back to the starting point.
Use a flexible ruler to capture the curve accurately for sleeveless garments.
Measure from the shoulder point over the bust apex to the waist elastic.
Mark the bust apex with tape to align apex-to-apex spacing in patterns.
Run the tape from the center-front neck hollow over the bust apex to the waist.
Record left and right sides separately if the bust sits unevenly.
Measure horizontally from the bust apex to the waist dart point to control dart intake.
Note the difference between left and right sides for asymmetric adjustments.
Measure from the waist at the side seam to the desired trouser hem.
Take barefoot and shoe-wearing readings to plan inseam allowance.
Measure along the inside leg from the crotch point to the ankle bone.
Use a book between the legs to mark the crotch level consistently.
Sit on a flat chair and measure vertically from the seat surface to the waist elastic.
Subtract 1 cm for lightweight fabrics; note the seated ease you prefer.
Wrap the tape around the knee with the leg slightly bent.
Mark the knee position vertically so hem shaping aligns with the measurement.
Measure the leg just below the knee curve.
Capture both legs if your stance makes one calf fuller.
Measure around the fullest part of the calf.
Stand evenly on both feet—leaning on one leg changes the reading.
Measure at the narrowest point above the ankle bone.
Record a second measurement over socks if you sew tapered trousers.
Men’s Nordic grading uses additional tailoring lengths for jackets, waistcoats, and outerwear. Capture each value precisely so garment blocks align with the measurement tables and ease plans.
Measure from the base of the neck down the spine to the desired coat or shirt hem.
Note separate lengths for casual shirts and formal jackets to guide ease choices.
Support the arm with a ruler and measure vertically from the high shoulder point to the underarm level.
Relax the arm fully—tailoring drafts assume a neutral stance.
Trace from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist seam position.
Keep the tape close to the spine to capture posture-related adjustments.
Wrap the tape around the fullest part of the chest and across the shoulder blades.
Take a relaxed and an expanded chest reading to plan suit ease.
Measure at the natural waist or preferred trouser waistband height.
Log the waistband height alongside the measurement for repeatability.
Measure around the fullest part of the seat without compressing the fabric.
Use a mirror to confirm the tape remains horizontal across the back.
Drop the tape from the waistline to the fullest seat level to map vertical balance.
Record front and back distances if you routinely adjust crotch depth.
Measure across the back between arm creases at the level of the back balance line.
Confirm the tape stays perpendicular to the spine to avoid shrinking the width.
Measure around the base of the neck where the collar band will sit.
Slip a fingertip under the tape to maintain breathing ease.
Measure from the shoulder point over the elbow to the wrist while the elbow is softly bent.
Record a second value for shirts that show a half-inch of cuff beyond the jacket.
Capture the distance between the shoulder point and the front balance point to set sleeve angle.
Mark the pitch on the muslin first; transfer the distance here once verified.
Trace the armhole seam line from the front balance point under the arm and back to the shoulder.
A flexible ruler makes it easier to transfer the curve to paper.
Measure from the base of the neck down the center back to the planned jacket hem.
Traditional suiting ends around the thumb knuckle—log your preference explicitly.
Measure from the shoulder point at the neck down the front to the desired vest point.
Note where the waistcoat should end relative to the trouser waistband.
Measure from the base of the neck to the tailcoat hem at center back.
Stand in dress shoes to capture the correct tail clearance.
Measure from the back neck to the overcoat hem, following the spine.
Record lengths for both topcoat and raincoat variations if you sew multiples.
Measure from the waist or waistband level down the side leg to the floor or hem.
Capture barefoot and shoe measurements to plan break and turn-ups.
Measure along the inside leg from crotch seam to floor.
Use a rigid ruler between the legs to mark the crotch level consistently.
Record the finished trouser hem circumference at the ankle.
Note separate widths for tapered, straight, and wide-leg drafts.
Wrap the tape around the knee with the leg gently bent.
Mark the knee height so shaping seams land at the same point.
Measure the leg just below the knee curve.
Measure both legs if one calf is more developed.
Measure around the fullest part of the calf.
Stand evenly across both feet to avoid skewing the reading.
Measure at the narrowest point above the ankle bone.
Add a sock-over measurement if you prefer a wider opening for boots.
Take each measurement twice. If the difference is greater than 0.5 cm, repeat until the readings converge—especially for circumferences and sleeve lengths.
Track the date, goals (new block, weight shift, recovery, etc.), and any posture or footwear notes. Patterns evolve faster when you can review earlier sessions.
Link each measurement entry to photos or sketches of tape placement. Visual notes make it easier to spot mistakes before they reach the cutting table.
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